What Do the Antique Symbols Stamped on Jewelry Mean?
When shopping for antique jewelry, there’s a bit of a learning curve. Unless you’re shopping at reputable auction houses or from high-end boutiques that cater to luxury collectors, you’re likely hunting down your antique pieces at estate sales, antique and vintage stores, or online. In these environments, it’s crucial that you learn to recognize what you’re looking at and whether or not it truly matches the seller’s advertisement so you can avoid purchasing an item that’s not entirely worth what you paid (if anything at all).
Beyond learning to recognize jewelry trends throughout the decades and certain types of jewelry that were popular in years past (such as Bakelite), brushing up on jewelry markings can be helpful. These antique symbols stamped on jewelry can provide a wealth of information regarding a piece, from what it consists of to who made it.
Ready to learn more? Our antique jewelry identification guide offers a crash course in antique symbols stamped on jewelry. with our antique jewelry identification guide.
What You Will Learn
Antique Jewelry Purity Marks
First up are purity marks. Purity marks on a piece of jewelry explain the particular metal composition. For example, a purity mark on gold jewelry will tell you how much gold is in that jewelry. Based on this information, you can determine whether the piece can be considered pure gold, gold filled, gold plated, etc.
Purity marks often appear as three digit antique symbols stamped somewhere on the piece, usually in an out-of-the-way area that’s not easily visible to the naked eye (at least not when you’re wearing the piece). A necklace might be stamped on the clasp, while a ring might have a stamp on the inside of the band.
To interpret a three-digit purity mark, think of it as a percentage. The mark “925” on silver jewelry translates to 92.5%, which means the piece is sterling silver. The mark “750” on gold jewelry translates to 75% gold.
However, purity marks sometimes appear as a combination of letters and numbers, as with gold jewelry, which might feature a two-digit number and a “k,” indicating that the jewelry is a specific gold karat.
Antique Jewelry Material Marks
Sometimes, antique jewelry might just feature a mark that tells you what material the piece consists of, not necessarily any percentages or levels of purity. Common material marks you might see include:
- S Silver, STG, or STER, for sterling silver
- GF, or gold filled
- KP or P, for plumb gold or pure gold
- GE, for gold electroplate
- HE, for heavy gold electroplate
- PLAT, for platinum jewelry
Antique Jewelry Maker's Marks
Other symbols stamped on jewelry antique collectors might buy include maker’s marks. A maker’s mark is just what it sounds like: a symbol that tells you who made the jewelry. These marks are significant when identifying a piece purported to be made by a high-end designer. Sometimes, the maker’s mark is just the maker’s name, as with Tiffany & Co., Mikimoto, or Bvlgari. Other times, the mark is more symbolic and less literal, or it can be the maker’s mark plus the brand’s name.
Examples of more vague maker’s marks include:
- A “T & Co.” for Tiffany & Co.
- A conjoined “D” and “Y” for David Yurman
- An “M” inside an oyster outline for Mikimoto
Antique Jewelry Assay Marks
These antique symbols go way back. An assay mark dates back to the Middle Ages. It indicates the origin of the jewelry piece to a specific country or town. However, these assay marks can be tricky to interpret, as they’ve changed over the centuries. Still, if you can appropriately identify an assay mark, you’ll get insight into a piece’s unique history.
Examples of assay marks include:
- An eagle can indicate that the jewelry came from France
- A duck can indicate that the jewelry came from Switzerland
- A lotus flower can indicate that the jewelry came from Egypt
- A moon and a crown can indicate that the jewelry came from Germany
Some countries also use different assay marks to indicate where the jewelry is from, its purity level, and the type of metal(s). For example, the duck used in Switzerland showed a piece containing sterling silver; however, a piece made from coin silver could contain the mark of a grouse.
Sometimes, the assay mark might also include a separate purity mark — for example, German silver (as in, silver made in Germany, not the material known as German silver that consists of nickel silver, made from 60% copper, 20% nickel, and 20% zinc).
Other Marks You Might Find on Antique Jewelry
Depending on how old the jewelry is, some less common marks that you might find on antique jewelry can pinpoint when and even where the jewelry originates. These include:
- Date marks are specific to the United Kingdom and feature a letter that tells you roughly the creation year for the piece
- Retailer marks, which tell you what store sold the jewelry
- Duty, import, and export marks can indicate that taxes paid on the piece
- Patent marks, which indicate a jewelry’s patent
Antique Jewelry Symbols and Stamps FAQs
What are Purity Marks on Jewelry?
Purity marks tell you how much of a specific metal is in a piece of jewelry. Purity marks are often three numbers stamped somewhere less visible, like on a necklace clasp. The three numbers represent a percentage. For example, if you see “925” on silver jewelry, the piece is 92.5% pure silver.
What are Material Marks on Jewelry?
A material mark simply tells you what materials are in a piece of jewelry. A material mark is typically a letter or series of letters. For example, an “S” stands for silver, while “STG” and “STER” stand for sterling silver.
What are Maker’s Marks on Jewelry?
A maker’s mark on jewelry is a stamp that tells you who made the jewelry. The mark may be the maker’s full name or initials.
What is an Assay Mark on Jewelry?
You may see an assay mark on antique jewelry. Assay marks tell you where and when a piece was created, as European towns have historically had their own assay marks. Often, the mark is not letters or numbers but a more abstract symbol, like an animal or plant.
Learn More About Identification Antique Symbols Stamped on Jewelry
While there are other symbols and markings you can potentially find on jewelry, this guide is an excellent place to start. As you begin acclimating to the various hallmarks that can help you identify the materials within a piece, where it’s from, and how far back it dates.
For more, check out BriteCo’s other resources, including our guides to:
- How to make jewelry stamps
- Common jewelry stamps and what they mean
- How to interpret diamond symbols stamped on jewelry
Do you already have a piece of antique jewelry that you know is worth exactly what you paid—or maybe even more? Protect your investments for years or decades with customized jewelry insurance from BriteCo.
Request your free, quick, online quote and get comprehensive jewelry coverage in minutes.
Related Articles:
What is the Only Allowed Jewelry When Preparing Food?
What is Magnetic Jewelry?
Understanding The Different Types of Clasps For Jewelry
How Much is Permanent Jewelry?
How to Identify Vintage Jewelry?
Jewelry Warranty vs. Jewelry Insurance
How to Measure Necklace Length?
What Is Inlay in Jewelry?
Get a Quote:
The Easy Way to Insure Your Jewelry - and Save Money!
UP NEXT: 1920s Jewelry: Art Deco Styles, ID Tips, & Care | BriteCo
Author
