At Louis Martin Jewelers, custom engagement rings are not a trend. They’ve been the foundation of the business since 1978, when the store first opened its doors at Rockefeller Center in New York City.

For more than four decades, Louis Martin Jewelers has specialized in vintage and estate jewelry, vintage watches, and a curated selection of fine jewelry. The independent jeweler has worked with people from every walk of life, from first-time ring buyers to some of the most recognizable names in the world. That list includes actors and celebrities such as Eddie Murphy, Joe Piscopo, Jason Momoa, and, most recently, Robin Roberts of Good Morning America.

One thing has always remained the same: every ring begins with a vision, and the job of Louis Martin Jewelers is to bring that vision to life, no matter how intricate, personal, or unconventional it may be.

What You Will Learn

• Why more couples are choosing custom engagement rings today
• How the custom design process works at Louis Martin Jewelers
• A closer look at Robin Roberts’ custom ring set
• What stone selection looks like, from GIA-certified diamonds to colored gemstones
• Current engagement ring trends in New York City
• Why appraisal and documentation matter for one-of-a-kind pieces
• Frequently asked questions about custom engagement rings in NYC

Why Custom Matters More Than Ever

Today’s engagement ring buyers are more informed and intentional than ever before. They’re not just shopping for a ring. More than that, they’re designing something that reflects a lifestyle, a set of values, and a story that belongs to them.

Part of that shift is practical. Lab-grown diamonds have made it possible to reach larger carat weights or better cut grades within a budget that might not have stretched that far with natural stones. That opens up design possibilities that simply were not accessible for many buyers a decade ago.

But the bigger change is personal. Buyers today tend to want something specific to them — not a famous style loosely adapted to their finger, and not a ring pulled from a display case because it was the closest option available.

There’s also a cost misconception worth addressing. Many buyers assume custom means significantly more expensive. In reality, advances in design and fabrication technology have brought custom work far closer in cost to pre-made rings than most people expect. For a comparable price, a couple can have something unique built around their actual priorities: stone quality, setting structure, daily wearability, or a combination of all three.

At Louis Martin, quality always comes first. That means not just making a ring look right, but making sure it holds up. The store has seen clients bring in rings designed elsewhere where the stone sat off-center or where the setting could not properly secure the diamond. Those are problems that get caught and corrected at the design stage, and not after the ring has been worn for months.

The Road to the Ring

Every custom ring starts long before the diamonds are set. It starts with listening.

The First Consultation

The first meeting establishes the foundation. Budget, timeline, stone size and quality goals, metal preference, setting style, and overall design direction are all on the table. From there, Harry Mizrahi — licensed gemologist and primary designer at Louis Martin — drafts initial concepts. Clients can review those drafts in person at the Rockefeller Center store or remotely, whichever works best.

Lifestyle questions matter as much as aesthetic ones. The team wants a full picture of how the ring will actually be worn. Will it be on every day, or saved for special occasions? Does the wearer work in a profession that puts the ring at physical risk? Are there metal sensitivities to account for? Does the ring need a lower profile for comfort and security? What other jewelry will it be worn alongside, including a future wedding band?

Those answers shape the ring structurally, not just visually. A ring that photographs well but catches on everything or sits too high for the wearer’s daily life is a ring that does not work. Louis Martin’s process is built to prevent that from the start.

Budget is discussed directly and early. The goal is to work within what a client has and allocate it in a way that makes sense for what they actually want — whether that means prioritizing the center stone, the setting, or a balance of both.

Clients often bring photos, inspiration boards, and screenshots to that first meeting. All of it is useful as a starting point. But the team focuses on the underlying desire, not the specific image. In one case, a client arrived with photos of several different rings. After just a few questions, it became clear that what she actually wanted was a vintage-inspired design that would sit a specific way against her future wedding band. That kind of clarity is what makes the difference between a ring that matches a reference image and one that genuinely fits a life.

Stone Selection

Louis Martin has access to over 100,000 GIA-certified diamonds, giving clients real flexibility across cut, clarity, color, and shape at any budget level. The team walks clients through those decisions in person, showing the actual differences between stones side by side, which is often where a preference becomes obvious in a way it never would have on a screen.

Round diamonds remain the most requested shape. That’s unlikely to change. But more clients are choosing shapes based on what fits the ring they want to build, rather than what’s trending at the moment.

Colored stones are also common in custom commissions. Emeralds and blue sapphires come up frequently, either because a client loves a specific color or because it connects to the wearer’s style in a way a traditional all-diamond ring wouldn’t. A well-chosen colored stone can make a ring feel completely singular without being loud about it.

For clients with a family diamond or an inherited gemstone, Louis Martin can build an entirely new setting around an existing piece. Given the store’s decades of experience evaluating estate and vintage jewelry, assessing an older stone for condition, proportions, and setting suitability is a natural part of the process. The stone is examined first, and a design is built around it, preserving the history of the original piece while creating something made for the person wearing it now.

From Sketch to Finished Ring

Most custom designs begin with a conversation about fit, proportion, and overall direction. Hand sketches can be part of that process, but they’re not required. What matters is that the concept is clear before fabrication begins.

Revisions are typically minimal. One to two rounds is standard, and it isn’t uncommon for the first concept to become the final one. Once a ring looks right, it doesn’t need to be revised for the sake of it. Client approvals happen in person or over email, depending on what’s most convenient.

Once a design is approved, fabrication begins: CAD model, mold, pour, polish, stone setting, and final quality check. Most custom rings are completed within four to eight weeks, depending on design complexity and stone sourcing. At final pickup, sizing is confirmed in person when possible. Finger size can shift, and accuracy matters more for rings with structural detail.

Robin Roberts' Custom Ring Set

Harry Mizrahi designed both the engagement ring and the wedding band for Robin Roberts as a matched set: two pieces built together from the start so they’d work as one. That distinction matters. Designing a set means every decision about the engagement ring has to account for how the wedding band will sit alongside it, which adds a layer of planning that a single ring commission does not require.

Both Robin and her partner Amber were able to come into the store directly — Louis Martin Jewelers is located in the same building as NBC — to work through the design in person. They drew out what excited them, asked questions, and moved through the same process every Louis Martin client goes through: consultation, sketches, refinements, fabrication.

The rings were made in 18-karat yellow gold. That choice was deliberate. 18-karat offers a richer warmth than 14-karat, while avoiding the softness that comes with higher-karat gold in rings worn every day. For a set designed to be both seen and worn, it was the right balance.

The stone layout combined marquise and round-cut diamonds in a graduated arrangement that builds toward the center. This was not a single stone on a simple band. The design has a mosaic quality; each stone is chosen not just for how it looks individually, but also for how it fits within the whole. The overall effect is elongated, layered, and clearly intentional.

Sapphires and golden topaz were used as accents. Those choices were not decorative for their own sake. They were selected because their color and proportion complemented the warmth of the yellow gold and added depth to the diamond structure without pulling attention away from it. Every material decision supported the same direction.

The result is a ring that reflects exactly who it was made for, which is the only standard Louis Martin holds any commission to, regardless of who the client is.

NYC Engagement Ring Trends Right Now

New York buyers tend to be direct about what they want, and a few clear patterns are showing up consistently.

• Two-tone metals are back. Clients are mixing gold tones to create contrast, to complement existing jewelry, or to blend modern and vintage references in a single piece.
• Low-profile settings are in demand — and not just for appearance. The practical appeal is real: lower settings catch less, feel more comfortable for daily wear, and hold up better over time. For buyers with active lifestyles or physical jobs, this is a meaningful consideration.
• Vintage-inspired elements have seen a major resurgence. Many clients want a modern ring that incorporates something from an older design language — a proportion, a detail, a structural reference — without the ring becoming a full replica. It is one of the more accessible ways to make a ring feel distinctive without requiring unusual materials or complex construction.
• Ethical sourcing is a real priority, but a personal one. Louis Martin supports clients across different sourcing preferences, from natural GIA-certified diamonds to lab-grown stones, and works to match what each buyer actually values.

From Design to "I Do" — and Beyond

A custom engagement ring doesn’t end at the proposal. Because these pieces are one-of-a-kind, proper appraisal and documentation are essential to protect them long-term.

If a custom ring is lost or damaged without a detailed record on file, recreating it accurately becomes much harder. The specific stone dimensions, metal specifications, and design details that make the ring unique are exactly what an insurer needs to provide proper replacement coverage. Custom rings can be harder to replace than standard designs, which makes accurate documentation even more important.

Louis Martin Jewelers handles appraisal as part of the completion process. Harry, as a licensed gemologist, documents the finished ring with images and full material detail. That documentation is then submitted to a specialized jewelry insurance provider. Louis Martin works with partners like BriteCo, who offer a cutting-edge, dedicated jewelry appraisal software, giving clients access to coverage from the day they walk out with the ring.

For a piece this personal and this specific, that protection is worth having from the start.

Frequently Asked Questions About Custom Engagement Rings in NYC

How long does it take to design a custom engagement ring in New York?

Most custom rings take four to eight weeks from approved design to final pickup, covering CAD modeling, fabrication, stone setting, and quality review. More complex designs or rare stone sourcing may add time. Louis Martin Jewelers recommends starting the process at least two to three months before a planned proposal date. This allows for revisions without pressure and ensures proper sizing and documentation once the ring is complete.

To get started, clients can schedule a custom engagement ring consultation directly with the team.

Is a custom engagement ring more expensive than buying a pre-made one?

Not necessarily. Modern design tools have made custom fabrication far more accessible than it was a decade ago, and the cost is often comparable to a pre-made ring of similar quality. Pricing depends on materials, stone selection, and design complexity — not on whether the ring is custom. In many cases, going custom means a couple gets exactly what they want rather than paying for brand markups on something close but not quite right.

How much does a custom engagement ring typically cost in NYC?

Most engagement rings fall in the range of $3,000 to $10,000, though the range varies depending on metal choice, center stone specifications, and overall complexity. More elaborate commissions with larger stones or multiple gemstones can extend well above that. A consultation with Louis Martin Jewelers helps define a realistic budget early and allocate it in a way that matches what the client is actually trying to build.

What should someone bring to a first consultation?

Photos, inspiration boards, and reference images are all useful starting points — but none are required. The most valuable inputs are budget, timeline, and a general sense of style direction. Louis Martin can prepare stone examples and setting references in advance if a client reaches out before the appointment. Seeing options in person tends to clarify preferences much faster than reviewing images on a screen.

Can a custom ring be designed around an heirloom or existing stone?

Yes, Louis Martin Jewelers regularly builds new settings around heirloom diamonds and family gemstones. Given the team’s background in estate and vintage jewelry evaluation, assessing an older stone for structural condition, proportions, and setting suitability is a natural part of the process. The stone is examined first, and then a design is built around it, carrying the history of the original piece into a setting made for the person wearing it today.

When should a custom engagement ring be appraised, and why does it matter?

Appraisal and documentation should happen at or shortly after completion. For custom pieces, this step is especially important because the ring is unique. Without a detailed breakdown of the materials, stones, and design, recreating the ring accurately after a loss is significantly harder, and insurance coverage may fall short of the actual replacement cost. Louis Martin provides an appraisal as part of the final pickup process, so clients leave with both the ring and the documentation needed to protect it.

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